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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.